Cylinder head porting & modification services

Its been on the cards for a year or so, but have finally decided to branch out and offer my services in porting & modifying cylinder heads.

All heads considered,
8v/16v small block (085)
large block 8v & 16v (058) - inc TDI
large block 8v/20v & FSI (06a) - inc TDI
VR6 12v & 24v

Not after knock off mainstream prices...£600 - goto CFM engineering or TSR, im offering a budget service to fellow VW owners/members.

Quite happy to offer trials to vouch for my work.

Case studies to show (Contact Darkdub aka Rish - who bought my ported ABA crossflow head), Vyizis aka Dan - soon to trial my ported abf head.

My own V8 head, modified for 4 cylinder, using new machined inlet runners as per VWM BTCC design

Turn around - 2 - 3 weeks depending on work required.

Prices depending on requirement - PM me or TXT me on 07547684394, pricing competitive as "Mates Rates" (my time + materials..non profit)

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what could you do with a AGU engine running stock atm, including stock turbo

The key is in the exhaust runners and combustion chambers. The inlet runners on 20vs are more than adequate in size. AGU is a large port head, so to enlarge the runners any further would reduce air velocity at ideal pumping speed..e.g workable powerband. You would end up making peak torque way up the rev band, beyond what your hardware is capable of.If you were to move up to a gt35 or gt40 sized turbine housing, I would recommend the large port head with the runners enlarged to suit. For stock turbo, there is little or no difference between large port/small port heads at k03/k03s flow rates.

Work on the exhaust side can demonstrate improved exhaust flow, which results in greater turbine spool, with a slight reduction in back pressure due to less obstructions and a cleaner flow for gasses. Some will agree to polishing runners, others dont. Im a fan of keeping the port opening at rough cut (e.g 240 grade) but introducing an 800 matt finish in the bowl. A little carbon build up at port exit isnt drastic, and offers better thermal protection to the head runners. Carbon build up in the bowl,and radius often chokes the head, negating any benefits to cleaning the runner shape.

The 20v head is very good as it is from the factory, its downfall is the combustion chamber, as they are often left with casting flashes and raises which can lead to pre-det and carbon build up.

I can tidy the head up for you, and will demonstrate better flow for longer periods. But you will really need to move over to a larger "snail" to really bring out the differences. The K03/K03s doesnt really cut it, no offence

no offence taken, i appreciate you taking the time out to write all that!

so your basically saying that the stock head is fine, and in order to see better improvements, i need to upgrade the turbo.


whilst that wasnt on the cards, i was thinking about upgrading the recirc valve, and a remap for now, its going to be going into a mk1, so i reckon it will be plenty for now, i was just curious as to what you could do while the engine was on the bench.

Its all good tbh, i wouldnt want you wasting your money & time porting the head and not feeling the gains in the "butt dyno" (not a homo/gay phrase btw!)

I looked into 20v's heavily in the past, started a 20v n/a build in fact many months ago. In stock trim, I would consider a remap (as you suggest) and investing in the recirc system. Dont go to heavy on the intercooler and boost pipes. If keeping k03/k03s, keep boost pipes to a minimum 2" (50mm), and intercooler no larger than 2-3litres IMO. The biggest killer to stage1 20vs is massive IC's, and big boost pipes, which can take literrally seconds to re-pressurise the whole system again during on/off boost (e.g gear change).

If you plan to leave it on stage1, some good advice would be to skim the head/deck the block and raise the static compression. Gives more performance off boost, and shouldnt impact reliability running a low flow k03/k03s.

Dont go to big on the downpipe, 2.5" as a maximum. The key to good tuning is gas velocity (inlet & outlet), too big on either and you will lose some oomph in the grand scheme of things.

If your staying 020, upgrade to a 16/2.0 8v 020 with the larger input shaft. Even then, it will probably die quickly. A good fix is to buy the arp diff bolt kit, to replace the crappy CWP rivetts that often fly out the casing

16v 020 2y offers the best ratios IMO for close ratios, 2.0 8v CWH gives the best lazy cruize ratios. You can swap 020 mk2 100mm CV's and carriers onto mk1 shafts easily enough.

Pre-remap, a very good mod is to invest in an adjustable fpr, or 4.0bar fpr. Ive often found 20v's tend towards lean AFR's when warned up, and should allow more fuel with a touch more boost to match

If you still want to fiddle with the head, bring it over to mine sometime, ill quite happily take a look and show sum tricks FOC

I would still reccomend porting/reshaping on 8v, 16v and VR6 heads.Out the box their flow capability is shocking! Good blocks, but the key to good power is in the head!